How to care for a leather jacket

The short version

Wipe it, let it dry away from heat, condition it twice a year, hang it on a wide hanger. Leather is skin; treat it the way you would treat your own and it lasts decades.

Cleaning

Dust and city grime come off with a soft dry cloth. For marks, use a cloth barely damp with lukewarm water and wipe in the direction of the grain, then let it dry naturally. Do not use soap, household cleaners, wipes or anything with alcohol: they strip the finish and leave a pale patch. For a stain that will not move, stop and write to us before trying anything stronger.

Conditioning

Twice a year, or when the leather starts to feel dry at the cuffs and elbows, work a small amount of a neutral leather balm into the whole jacket with a cloth, a panel at a time, and buff off the excess after an hour. Test on the inside of the hem first. Sheepskin nappa drinks balm quickly, so use less than you think; cowhide takes a little more. Never use oils, wax or shoe polish, and never put balm on the wool side of an aviator collar.

Rain

Semi-aniline leather takes a shower without harm. If the jacket gets soaked, shake it off, hang it on a wide hanger in a room without heating, and let it dry on its own, which can take a day. Do not put it near a radiator, a fire or in the sun, and do not use a hairdryer: heat shrinks and cracks leather. Once dry, condition it. Water spots on nappa usually fade as the leather dries evenly.

Storage

Hang the jacket on a wide, shaped hanger so the shoulders keep their line; a wire hanger will mark them in a week. Keep it in a cool, dry wardrobe out of direct light, with air around it. For the summer, a breathable cotton garment bag keeps dust off; never a plastic one, which traps moisture and breeds mould. Do not fold a leather jacket for storage, and do not stack things on it.

Smells and smoke

Leather holds odours. Air the jacket outside on a dry day, out of the sun, for a few hours. Do not spray it with perfume or fabric freshener; the alcohol marks the finish.

Scratches, marks and wear

Small scratches on nappa often disappear when you rub them with a clean finger; the warmth moves the oils back into the grain. Scuffs on cowhide can be softened with balm. Veins, small scars and shade variations were there before the jacket was cut: they are part of the hide, not faults. The warranty page explains the difference between wear and a defect.

Hardware and lining

Zips run smoother with a touch of wax on the teeth once a year. The lining can be sponged with a damp cloth; never put the jacket in a washing machine or a tumble dryer, and do not dry-clean it unless the cleaner specialises in leather.

What never to do

• Machine wash, tumble dry, iron or steam.
• Dry it with heat.
• Use alcohol, solvents, wipes or household cleaners.
• Store it folded, in plastic, or in a damp room.
• Leave it in a hot car; the finish can blister.