Style guide
The biker jacket, explained
Where the asymmetric zip came from, how the cut differs from a café racer or a bomber, and how to choose the one you will still be wearing in ten years.
What makes a biker jacket
A biker jacket is defined by its front. The zip runs diagonally from the hip to the opposite collar, so the two lapels overlap and lock out the wind when it is closed, and fold open into wide revers when it is not. Snaps hold the lapels down, a belt cinches the hem, and the pockets sit on a slant so your hands fall into them naturally.
It is a style, not safety gear. Ours are casual jackets cut for the street: the motorcycle silhouette without the armour, the weight or the price of riding kit.
- Asymmetric front zip with snap-down lapels
- Belted or buckled hem that sits at the hip
- Slanted zip pockets and a chest zip for a wallet or phone
- Zip cuffs that keep the sleeve close
- Epaulettes, originally to keep a bag strap in place
Our Phantom and Rebel follow this pattern. Phantom is the fuller cut; Rebel is the women's version with a slightly higher waist, and the Women's Phantom keeps the original proportions in a women's block.
Biker, café racer or bomber
The three cuts look similar on a hanger and feel very different on. The biker has the overlapping front and the belt; the café racer has a straight centre zip and a band collar that snaps shut at the throat; the bomber has a straight zip too, but a shirt collar and ribbed knit at the hem and cuffs. If you want the jacket to be the outfit, choose the biker. If you want it to disappear into one, choose the café racer. The comparison table puts all five cuts side by side.
How it should fit
Close, not tight. The shoulder seam should sit on the bone, the sleeve should reach the wrist with the arm bent, and the zip should close over a T-shirt with a hand's width of ease. Sheepskin relaxes about half a size in the first month, so if you are between sizes and will not layer, take the smaller one.
Three checks before you keep it: raise both arms, and the hem should lift no more than a few centimetres; zip it fully, and there should be no pull lines across the chest; sit down, and the belt should not dig in. If none of the standard sizes work, the builder takes nine measurements and we cut a pattern for you.
Which leather
Every jacket we stock is cut in sheepskin nappa: soft, light, and broken in within weeks. Our vests are cowhide, heavier and firmer, which takes months to soften and then holds its shape for years. In the builder you can have a biker jacket in either; cowhide suits the cut if you want a jacket that stands on its own and will be handed down.
Hardware and lining
Silver hardware is the classic. Gunmetal reads darker and disappears into black leather; brass warms up brown and cognac. Linings are mostly about feel: quilted black for warmth, red satin for slipping on over knitwear, tartan flannel when you want the open lapels to say something.
How to wear it
Zipped and belted it is the statement piece. Open, with the lapels snapped back, it is a leather blazer that goes over a knit, a shirt or a dress. Keep the rest of the outfit quiet and let the hide do the talking. Black goes with everything; brown and cognac are warmer and age more visibly, which is the point.
Questions
Is a biker jacket warm enough for winter? With a quilted lining and a knit underneath, yes, down to a few degrees. For real cold, the Aviator's collar does more.
Should I size up? No. Take your body measurements and use the size guide; the ease is already in the pattern. Size up only if you will always wear a thick layer underneath.
How do I break in a new leather jacket? Wear it. Sheepskin softens with body heat and movement in two or three weeks. Do not soak it or use heat to speed it up.
Can the lapels be embroidered? No; they fold and snap. The back plaque, left chest and right arm take embroidery on the biker cut. See the artwork guidelines.
